July 24th, 2009

Blah

Yeah, I haven't updated this thing in ages.  Why?  Partly because life has been pretty unexciting this year, and partly because I think it would be hard for me to post any more without endless bitching about this country.  Can't say I'm thrilled to be trading Tanzania's bullshit for the US's bullshit in 6 months, but I will overall be happy to come home.  If I could go back in time I would still extend (mostly because of my neighbor and her son), yet I've definitely had my fill of this place.

So yeah, I should be back in the US in the beginning or middle of January.  I'm going to be helping my neighbor financially so that she can send her son to a good secondary school, because the thought of him going to one of these local schools turns my stomach - I can't even really call them schools since they're so terrible (see what I meant about bitching?)  I want to be here at least for the first week or so that he's in school, to make sure that everything's okay with the school.  Once he's settled, I'll be ready to leave.  I still haven't quite come to terms with having to say goodbye to them yet, but I have every intention of coming back to visit them as often as (financially) possible.

That's about it for me - the school finally started paying for the internet again after a long hiatus, so I will be trying to get in contact with everyone back home to see how you're all doing.  Peace!

Currently feeling: indescribable
Posted by krisc at 09:14 AM in Tanzania | add comment

December 6th, 2008

Crushing Defeat

On Tuesday, all of my worst fears came to pass - my neighbor and her son were denied US visas.  That day was easily the low point of my Peace Corps service, and more than that, one of the most thoroughly depressing days of my life.

And it wasn't simply that they were denied, but rather the manner in which it happened.  Ever since I had offered them the trip months ago, we had been doing a lot of work to make the trip happen.  It began with getting their passports, and dealing with corrupt Tanzanian immigration officers along the way.  Once their passports were obtained, we then began the process of applying for their US visas.  This involved filling in more forms, but it also involved getting supplemental information.  I've already written about getting the letter for my neighbor from the headmaster, and we also got a letter from her son's school headmaster, a bank statement for her for a year, the receipts from her house payments, and of course the letter from me.

Once that was done and we had filled in the paperwork, we came to Dar for their interviews.  First we had to get passport pictures taken of them, and then I had to deposit the visa fee ($262, or $131 per person) which is non-refundable.  Then the big day came, and we went for their interviews.

We got to the embassy at 7:30am (I wanted to be a bit early), and we waited until we could pass through security.  Then we went inside to the consular section, and waited in line again to drop off their forms.  There were no problems with their forms, so we simply sat down and started waiting.  I figured people would be called into another room to be interviewed, but there were simply three windows in the room - the first where you drop off your forms, and then two windows for interviews.  After a short while they began calling applicants' names, and finally my neighbor and her son's name were called.

I sat listening nervously as they were asked questions, and after about two minutes my neighbor and her son were done.  She came holding a letter printed on blue paper in her hand, and said simply "wamekataa" (they have refused).  I don't think it quite hit me at first, but I asked to see the letter and I asked her what happened.  She said that they asked her basic questions like what her job is, how long she has been a teacher for, what her salary is, etc.  Then they asked if the kid standing with her was her son, and she said yes.  The follow-up question asked if she would be traveling with her son, and when she said yes, the reply was "huwezi kwenda na mtoto" (you cannot go with a child), she was handed the rejection letter, and that was it.

No explanation as to why she couldn't travel with her son...nothing.  The letter was just a form letter stating that she hadn't met the requirements to be issued a US visa; namely, she didn't show her intent to return to Tanzania after the trip would be over.

Now, I have known these people for two years, and they are my immediate next-door neighbors at school.  Her son is in my house literally every day, and I have also spent a significant amount of time with her as well.  I know these people.  If there was any doubt in my mind that they were intending to run away once we reached the US, I would have never offered them the trip in the first place.  Nor would I have offered them the trip if I didn't wholeheartedly believe that they are good, honest people.

Yet somehow, in the space of two minutes, the consular officer who interviewed them was able to magically see through this amazing snow-job they've done on me, and determine that they aren't honest people.  To me, that's insulting.  I realize that they probably get a ton of visa applications, and that they have limited resources.  But you know what?  The solution isn't having interviews so fast that the officer is doing nothing more than making a guess as to the person's intentions.  So all of the work that we had done over months, and all of the time and money that was spent, was rendered meaningless in the space of two minutes.  Two.  Minutes.  And the best part?  They didn't even look at any of the supplemental information we had brought.

Needless to say, I was dejected and angry at the same time.  If they were denied, so be it - but I wanted to understand why they were rejected.  Neither the reason they gave her in the interview nor the letter she was given adequately explained why exactly they did not show their intent to return to Tanzania.  I knew the decision couldn't be appealed, but I wanted to understand why they were rejected, so I went into the American citizen services booth to see if I could get an answer.

Unfortunately, all I got were non-answers and ignorant remarks about myself.  You see, a while ago I had run my idea to bring these people to the US past the current Peace Corps Country Director, to see what he thought.  I got nothing but positive encouragement from him, and he gave me the names of the two top people at the embassy's consular section.  I e-mailed them to ask some questions, and one of them (the head guy) in his first reply gave me a warning not to appear as the kind of person who can arrange visas for people, as that would lead to a million people knocking on my door.  I said that while I understood his point, that wasn't the case here.  My neighbor and her son didn't come up to me one day saying "Hey we want to go to the US, get us visas!"  Nor was it because I hung a sign on my door saying "Want a US visa? Come here!"  Rather, this was me personally offering two people I care very much about the opportunity to visit my home.  Period.

So as it turns out, the head of consular affairs happened to be working at the US citizen services window that morning.  I explained who I was and what happened, and he started on the same line that he took in his e-mails - I had no part in the visa application process, and that it was completely on my neighbor and her kid to show their intent to return to Tanzania.  I said that's fine, but can I at least know why they were denied?  His answer?  "That's the $64,000 question."

I understand that if they gave people more specific reasons, some people might game the system.  But in my opinion, when someone puts that much time, money, and effort into an application, they damn well deserve some kind of answer.  Yet, we got nothing.  He gave me the same boilerplate responses that were in the form letter she was given.  But the best was yet to come.

Towards the end of the conversation, he said to me "You are doing yourself and the Peace Corps a disservice by making it seem like you can get visas for people."  What?  So apparently, I did something wrong by trying to do something nice for people I care about.  That makes total sense, right?  But the worst part was that he insulted me as a Peace Corps volunteer, saying I'm somehow doing something that goes against what the Peace Corps is about.  Yet the last time I checked, one of the three goals of Peace Corps is "to promote a better understanding of Americans on the part of the people served".  Color me stupid, but I would think that bringing someone to the US would certainly go a long way towards helping their understanding of the US.

So I left, though I went into the bathroom and cried for about ten minutes first.  When I came out we left, leaving behind all the hopes and plans I had.  Now all that's left is bitterness and disdain for the way that our government treats people trying to come to the US.

It's funny, there was a time when I was thinking of working for the State Department, but after this experience I am absolutely sure that I want no part of a system where people are systematically treated like garbage.  Illegal immigration or no, the way my neighbor and her son were treated was absolutely unacceptable, and it really hurt me to see it.  And to have some jackass in the embassy question my Peace Corps service was just the icing on the cake.  I guess living in your little American bubble, untouched by the dirty masses of Tanzanians, must be a real harrowing job to make someone so insensitive and uncaring.  I was actually laughing to myself hearing the consular officers calling peoples' names, because they were botching the pronunciations of their names terribly.  I'm guess pretty much none of the embassy staff speak Swahili, because if they had had just a little training I'm sure they wouldn't have screwed up the names so badly.  After my Peace Corps service, I don't think I could ever enjoy a job like that.

So what's next?  Nothing.  It's possible to apply again, but since their application was perfectly filled-out, what would we change?  Nothing.  So what would likely change in the interview?  Nothing.  Just a whole lot of nothing.

I decided to change my plane ticket so that I leave from Dar instead of Kilimanjaro, so I spent the rest of the week here in Dar with my neighbor and her son.  She got to see her oldest daughter (who she hasn't seen in a long time), and I took them around Dar.  We ate at a lot of Western-ish restaurants, which was actually a lot of fun once my neighbor got past the sticker shock.  I figured if I couldn't take them to the US, the least I could do was show them a good time in Dar.  I'm still considering other travel options for next June, but I'm not sure what's going to happen yet.

They left this morning to go back to school, which was sad because my neighbor's son was crying as he was getting on the bus.  And now I'm sitting in the Peace Corps office volunteer lounge, waiting until the evening when I go to the airport.  I'm sure I'll look forward to coming back, but right now I really think I need a break from this country.  The emotional strain the past week has been pretty bad, and it'll be nice to just hide out at home and see friends and family.

Currently feeling: gloomy
Posted by krisc at 04:23 PM in Tanzania | 1 comments

November 21st, 2008

Aggravation

My headmaster, who I've generally liked, is definitely on my shit list now.  Another day, another dwindling of the list of Tanzanians who don't annoy me.  Can you tell I'm extending?  Hah.

I'll be going to Dar next week, along with my neighbor and her son, to do their visa applications (as well as getting my plane tickets).  I had written a letter for my neighbor, from the headmaster, stating that she is a teacher at the school, her salary, length of employment, and that he has given her permission to travel next June.  I don't know if they'll even look at it during her visa interview, but the purpose was to show that she's gainfully employed here (intent to return to a traveler's home country is the most important thing to establish during the visa interview).

So anyway, I printed it out and gave it to my neighbor to show the headmaster, so he could read and sign it.  She came back a little while later saying that the headmaster refused to sign the letter until some corrections were made.  I figured okay, maybe he didn't like the wording of the letter and wanted to change it, so I asked her for the corrections so I could make them.

As it turns out, his "corrections" were changing the spelling of Consular Officer (to whom the letter is addressed) to Consulate Officer, and changing United States to United States of America.

I explained to her that a) United States is a perfectly acceptable way to write the country name, and b) the title of the person who will be interviewing them is a Consular Officer, not Consulate Officer.  I told her to go back to the headmaster with the letter, and explain to him that she talked to me, and that I said the letter is fine the way it is.

She comes back again, saying the headmaster was still refusing to sign the letter over the spelling of Consular Officer.  She said he looked in his dictionary, and was insisting that he was correct (apparently he knows more than me about US visa applications, especially considering he's never even been to the US).  Now I was getting pissed, because this guy is being obstinate for no rational reason.  Just sign the damn letter already!

But I wasn't going to let it slide, because people who think they know everything annoy me, and I felt like putting him in his place.  So I printed out the section of the US embassy in Tanzania website that deals with visa applications, and underlined the section that says the interview will be conducted by a Consular Officer.  Hopefully that will convince him that he's wrong and he'll sign the letter.  If not, I'm seriously going to go talk to him myself and give him a piece of my mind, because this is beyond ridiculous.

Just an example of how Tanzanians can get caught up in infinitesimally small matters of formality while completely missing the big picture.

--

Of course, whether or not my neighbor and her son actually come with me to Dar isn't exactly certain yet, because my neighbor's son still has to do his final exams, which are supposedly scheduled to start on Monday.  The problem is that he doesn't know when the exams will actually end, and we're planning to go to Dar on Saturday of next week.  The reason is that I'm leaving Tanzania on Dec 6th, which gives us exactly a week from next Saturday to get the entire visa process done.  It shouldn't take more than 2-3 days, but since this is the last realistic chance we have to get their visas, I don't want to take any chances.  Plus, I need time to come back up to school so that I can get ready to leave.

So if, for some reason, his exams aren't finished on Friday and they are supposed to continue on Monday, that will create a rather large problem.  He thinks they'll be done next week, but with Tanzanian schools, who knows?  It's unbelievable to me that a school doesn't even know when final exams are going to finish considering there are about 2 weeks of school left, but it's just another example of the stupidity that exists in the school system here.

And since I'm already venting about the sorry state of the education system here, I'll mention something else.  My neighbor's kid showed me a spot on his leg where he'd been hit by a teacher (there was a raised mark) last week.  Yet the laws regarding corporal punishment state that the ONLY places a student may be hit are on the hand or on the buttocks (hand only for girls).  So this teacher broke the law.  But can you do anything about it?  Of course not.

The best part, however, is what he was beaten for.  I like to term a lot of schools here agricultural schools, because the students wind up doing so much work in school gardens that it's hard to believe they actually go to school to do anything else.  Anyway, he (along with other students) had been sent to cut vegetables from the school garden.  He did, and then went to give them to the teacher.  But apparently the amount of vegetables he brought weren't enough, so the teacher hit him.

Just run this through your head a few times.  A kid gets physically beaten for not cutting enough vegetables, which is already an activity that students shouldn't be doing at school anyway.  And the teacher chose to do this instead of simply sending him back to cut more with maybe a verbal reprimand.

It just makes me ill.  I've become "accustomed" to seeing corporal punishment, and it doesn't really affect me much when I see it here at school, but my neighbor's kid is another story.  He's a good kid, and it's very painful for me to see someone who I think of as a kid brother being treated in such an awful manner.

I've become much less willing to hide my opinions on matters like corporal punishment, because it's behavior that I'm simply not willing to tolerate.  I'm not going around school stopping it (like a couple of volunteers have done), but if it comes up in conversation I make my position very clear.  I didn't say anything when I first got here because I was worried about voicing opinions, but now I just don't care.  I'm so sick and tired of all the stupidity that goes on in schools here. 

--

Anyway, I had wanted to write a bit about the fact that we got the internet installed and opened our internet cafe, but after writing the above I think I'll have to wait until I no longer feel like putting my head through the nearest wall.

Posted by krisc at 11:52 AM in Tanzania | add comment

July 8th, 2008

Progress

It's been a while, that's for sure! Some of you might think I've fallen off the face of the earth, but in fact I'm still alive and kickin' here in Tanzania. Can't say exactly why I lost interest in posting here, but as I do have some things to write about, I figured it was about time to update this thing.

The biggest piece of news, I guess, is that I will be extending my Peace Corps service here in Tanzania for a third year. So instead of returning to the US for good this December, I will be returning in December of 2009. Why did I decide to do it? Partly because I have really enjoyed my time here, and also because the projects I have been working on will not be satisfactorily completed by the end of this year. In the end, I didn't want to leave things unfinished.

However, fret not - for all of you who are worried that you won't see me for another year and a half, I will actually be back to the US not one, but two (!) times before I complete my service here. All one-year extenders get a one month vacation back in the US between their second and third years, so I will be back from the beginning of December until the beginning of January. Just like last year, I will be visiting friends and family, and enjoying 24-hour electricity, fast internet, the fact that traveling somewhere by road doesn't involve sucking in a metric ton of dust, and all the other wonderful little perks of American life that we take for granted. Oh, and of course eating unspeakably heinous amounts of food.

My other trip back to the US will be from sometime in the middle of June 2009 until the first week of July. But for that trip, I will be bringing two guests with me - a fellow teacher here at school and her son (notice I said *her* son, so all you rumor-mongers out there who think I'm bringing a wife and child home with me can look elsewhere for gossip). They have been my next-door neighbors here at school since I arrived, and have been very much like family to me. The teacher has been like a second mother to me here in Tanzania (or I should say third, my host mother was like my second mother), and her son (who is 12) has been like the younger sibling I always wanted, but never had, when I was growing up.

These are people who mean a great deal to me, and who have made my life here so much more enjoyable. This isn't something that I would do for anyone, given both the amount of money (I'm paying for the plane tickets) and time (getting them passports and US visas) that it will take. We have already finished the application process for their passports - complete with having to give a bribe to a corrupt Tanzanian official - so those should be ready by the end of this month. Once that happens, we will begin the just-as-fun (but hopefully less corruption-prone) process of getting them US visas. Then I can finally purchase the plane tickets, and we will be set.

I hope the trip will be a wonderful experience for them, and I think I am really going to enjoy showing them around my country. Tanzanians generally love meeting new people, so if any of you would be interested in meeting them, please let me know and I'm sure we can arrange it. My neighbor (the teacher) can speak English pretty well, so communication with her isn't a problem. Her son's English is unfortunately non-existent (even though he's been learning it in school for almost 4 years), so I or his mother will need to translate into Swahili for him. I don't have anything like a definite itinerary yet, but basic ideas would be taking them to New York/Philadelphia/DC, the Jersey Shore, and of course to visit people. They will be staying at my mother's house - hopefully the dog behaves herself and doesn't try and bite them all the time.

Otherwise, two of the projects I've been working on here at school are finished - the grant I wrote for installing water pipes and sinks in our science lab was approved, and the work is done. So now our lab has running water (no more carrying water in buckets to the lab), and a safe disposal system for used chemicals (no more dumping them outside on the ground). I'm excited to start doing practicals with the students, in no small part because the prep and clean-up times will be significantly reduced.

The other project was acquiring more computers for the school, and that too is finished. We had applied for, and received, 20 computers from an NGO (non-government organization) in Moshi. The school also purchased another 15 computers for a rather cheap price (about $550) from a different NGO. So now the school has a total of 48 computers, a large improvement from the 13 that were here when I got here. And they're all Pentium 3/4 computers, meaning that we have modern computers to teach with, instead of 486/Pentium 1 computers that can't run much of anything. Plus, no more trying to teach a class of 50 kids with 13 computers, thank God.

Now that we have computers, the follow-up project is getting the internet cafe up and running at the school, which my headmaster has been wanting to do for some time. I've contacted the satellite company, so hopefully by the end of July everything should be set up.

Another piece of good news is that we finally have other teachers teaching computers. One teacher will be teaching Form 1, and a second teacher will be teaching Form 2 (both of which I refuse to teach because the Form 1/2 students' English is awful). I will still be teaching Forms 3/4/5/6, but the number of periods will be much less than it was last year (when I was teaching something like 34 periods a week at one point).

Finally, we've just about finished the grant application to get money to build a new kitchen here at the school. This is something I will be talking more about here on my website, because with this specific grant, anyone can donate money to the project via the Peace Corps website. It's a big project, but given the successes we've had here so far, I'm confident that it will go pretty smoothly.

I think that's about it for now, I hope all of you are enjoying your summer and had a nice Fourth of July. I guess I should send out a mass e-mail to prod people, but it would really be nice to hear from those of you who I haven't talked to in a while!

Currently feeling: hopeful
Posted by krisc at 12:53 PM in Tanzania | add comment

February 24th, 2008

A New Year

A question that I'm sure every Peace Corps Volunteer asks him/herself at some point during their service is "Am I making a difference?"  I've talked about this before, but I wanted to revisit the question not in terms of individual success or failure, but in terms of Peace Corps as an organization.  A lot of people hear two years and think that's a really long time.  And it is a long time, for not being able to see friends and family.  But with regard to our actual job here, I have come to see why we don't stay for 6 months, or one year.

The truth is that fitting into a completely foreign culture doesn't come overnight, and it doesn't come easy.  It's a long, slow process that takes time, energy, and at times a lot of frustration.  But the end result is a very rewarding one.  And this is why I have come to appreciate the fact that we are here for an extended length of time.  If I left after 6 months, or even one year, I'm not sure I would have really felt like I had accomplished much.  "Much" in the sense of my work here at school.  Don't get me wrong, being able to converse in a foreign language after 8 weeks of training, making friendships with Tanzanians, and being able to live independently in a very foreign country are all big accomplishments themselves.

Yet those are all smaller steps on the way to the much bigger - and also much harder to attain - goal of truly helping people.  And in that respect, I feel like my work is truly beginning this year.  Did it take me all of last year to adjust to living in Tanzania and here at school?  I don't think so, but then again by the time I did feel like I was really fitting in, there wasn't much of the year left.  Second semesters in Tanzanian schools are very busy times, due to the national exams, and often it's pretty hard to get much of anything done past the beginning of September.

Yet now, I'm already well-adjusted, and feel like this year is a year where I can make a bigger impact at my school.  I wasn't sure how I'd feel about returning to Tanzania after being back in the US for the holidays - even though I was happy here, it's still hard to leave everyone again for a second time.  But once I got back to school, and took some time to think about the past year, I realized that I'm really ready to make a difference (or try at least) in the lives of the students and teachers.  That kind of heady optimism can lead to crushing failure, it's true, but I have a year's worth of experience to back me up now, and that experience lends me a great deal of confidence in what I'm doing that I didn't have before.

So is two years worth it?  From my perspective, absolutely. 

In other news, I recently got a penpal project going, between my students and students from my mother's school.  My students were really excited, and I hope it will turn out to be a really nice opportunity for them to get to know Americans who are closer in age to them.  At the very least, it will give them good practice in their English skills.

Also, I have a new neighbor who arrived almost 2 weeks ago - she's a PCV who transferred from Kenya.  As I'm sure you all know, Kenya experienced (and still is) a lot of post-election violence, which led to first some and then all PCVs in the country being evacuated.  A small number decided to transfer to Tanzania, and one of them was placed at a school about 20 minutes from mine.  Her school is much needier than mine (she's only one of two science teachers for a school of 400+ students), but I hope she'll enjoy it here as much as I have.

And finally, I wanted to say that it was wonderful seeing all of the people that I was able to while I was home.  Of course I would have liked to stay longer, but it was still great getting to be with all of you, especially during the holidays.  I wish all of you reading this a belated, but heartfelt, happy and healthy new year!

Posted by krisc at 05:15 PM in Tanzania | add comment

December 7th, 2007

All Good Things...

It isn't every day that you meet a person who makes a fundamental and permanent impact on your life.  Adela Njuu, my host mother, was one such person.  As I sat in the tiny living room of her house for the first time, more than one year ago, I don't think I could have possibly imagined how much I would come to appreciate and care about both her and her family.  She gave so much to me, and asked nothing in return.  Life in Tanzania can be frustrating at times, because many people will see you as a source of money, and nothing else.  But she treated me like a human being, and indeed more than that - like her own child.  I will never forget how proud she was when I brought home my final Swahili exam, or how she was so concerned with me being the best-dressed trainee at our swearing-in ceremony.

Yet memories are all I have now, because last night I received news from her daughter that she had passed away, finally succumbing to the cancer that she had been struggling against for almost 6 months.  Since June it has been an emotional rollercoaster - the initial shock and despair on finding out she had cancer, to the hope that she would recover after having an operation and beginning chemotherapy, to the heartbreaking pain she had to endure due to the chemotherapy, to more hope when she seemed to be gaining strength, to the crushing defeat when an ultrasound showed additional tumors, to a feeble chance that a second operation would remove all the remaining tumors, and finally to the acceptance that her fate was sealed when the doctors saw during the second operation that there was nothing more they could do.

And so it is with an extremely heavy heart that I bid farewell to one of the friendliest, most welcoming, and most giving people I have had the privilege of knowing in my entire life.  She was more than just someone whose house I lived in for a short while and then said goodbye to - she was like the second parent that I never had.  The following words are for her, and I hope that she can hear them, wherever she may be:

May the Lord bless you and keep you

May the Lord shine His face upon you and be gracious unto you

May the Lord lift up His countenance upon you, and give you peace

Posted by krisc at 11:47 PM in Tanzania | add comment

October 13th, 2007

And before I forget...

I didn't want to bury this at the bottom of another long post, so I'll make a separate entry - assuming Peace Corps approves my vacation form, I will be coming back to the US for Christmas and New Year's (more specifically, from December 21st until January 6th).  I certainly hope that I will be able to see everyone at least once, as I've missed all of you.  I'll be e-mailing some of you folks who are a bit far from NJ about coming to visit (or if you can come to NJ, since I most likely will not have a car).  I'm looking forward to seeing folks, assuming I don't go into shock from being back in the US...

Also, now that I think of it - if there's anything specific those of you reading this would like me to write about, let me know.  I know that most of my entries are more introspective, and that I might not be giving much information about day-to-day life here (which I'm not very good at writing about).  But if there's something you want to know, tell me and I'll write about it - it's easier for me to write about more mundane stuff if I have some direction :) 

Posted by krisc at 10:21 AM in Tanzania | 1 comments

The Edifice Complex

Yesterday our school had two visitors from an NGO called ViAfrica, which is based in Moshi.  They donate computers to schools, as well as providing service contracts and training - their approach is really great for this kind of environment, because here in Tanzania, simply donating computers isn't enough.  People from other countries might think that donating a computer is always a positive thing, but that isn't necessarily the case.  Usually, the computers that get donated to Africa are extremely old computers that aren't worth anything in the originating country, and that would otherwise simply be thrown away.  This is the case for many things here, including clothes.  Ever wonder if those old clothes you donated actually went anywhere?  Well, they do.  It's a never-ending source of amusement (and sadness as well) to see Tanzanians walking around with shirts like "Johnson Family Reunion 1997", or men wearing "I Defeated Breast Cancer". 

But clothing is one story - computers are another entirely.  Donating very old equipment can often be a hassle, or worse a serious drain on a school's resources.  The problem is that spare parts for old computers can be difficult - actually generally impossible - to find here.  This means that when an older computer breaks, it's probably done for good.  Otherwise, the school has to spend money (if parts are available) fixing up an old, crappy computer that it could have used to purchase a newer computer for probably the same price.

Donated computers are also usually of widely varying types, which makes supporting/servicing them that much more of a headache, especially when you consider that your average secondary school will not have anyone on staff that knows about computer repair.  In our computer lab, for example, there are computers that came from the US, from the UK, and from Germany.  That means we have three types of keyboards, one from each country.  When your kids are trying to learn how to type, but every other computer is different, it can be very frustrating for them.  The US and UK keyboards aren't that different, but the German ones are.  To be honest, that kind of annoys me that someone wouldn't consider that maybe Tanzanians don't know German before donating the computer (the country did used to be a German colony, but almost nobody here speaks German).

I remember a scene in The Constant Gardener when Ralph Fiennes' character goes to Sudan to find a doctor who supposedly knows why his wife was killed.  He finds him working in a small village, where the doctor shows him "donated" medicines from Western countries that are well past their expiration dates.  I believe the line he said was "disposable drugs for disposable people", and called Africa the dumping ground for the world's refuse.  When I first saw the movie I thought maybe the writers were being a bit sensationalistic, but after being here I'd say they weren't that far off the mark.  People and corporations from wealthier countries get to write off donations, but often what they're donating is junk - so basically, they get a tax break for dumping their trash on Africa, instead of in a landfill.  As optimistic as I tend to be about the long-term outlook of the human race, it's stuff like this that makes it hard not to become extraordinarily cynical.

I do recognize that not everyone who engages in charitable giving is doing so for nefarious reasons, and that probably most people are genuinely trying to do some good.  However, simply wanting to do good isn't enough (the road to hell, and all that), because even the most well-intentioned plans can be detrimental if they are based on idealism and not in reality.  There are consequences to everything, and ignorance of possible ramifications is not an excuse for blind giving.

This applies to Peace Corps volunteers as well.  The title of this post was the title of a short passage given to us during training by another PCV.  It talked about how a volunteer was living in an area where there was very little water, and so he decided that he wanted to raise money to build a well and a windmill that would pump the water up to the surface.  This was a rather large project by Peace Corps standards, but he got the money, and everyone in the area was very happy.  They build the well and the windmill, and for the first time in a long time the people had a reliable source of water. 

The PCV finished his service, and went back to the US.  After several years, he returned to the country where he had served, and visited his village.  What he found was that the pumps for the well had broken, and nobody in the village had the skill to fix them, so the magnificent contraption he had built was now in disuse.  Which means the people in the village were back to square one, despite all the money that had been spent.

Now this person was a PCV, who was not some far-removed donor who has no idea what the reality of the situation in a remote village is.  He lived there, he worked with the people, and he knew what their needs were.  But despite this, he still managed to use a large amount of money on a construction project that ultimately turned out to be a failure.  If someone like this can make an error, it's easy to see how your average person in the US might have little to no idea as to how their donation is actually going to affect people.

But for most PCVs, I think, there is a desire to contribute something more to our schools than just teaching.  Why?  Because teaching is an intangible contribution, and most of us will probably never see the fruits of our labor while we are in the country.  However, it's much easier to point to a classroom and say "I built that".  It's something concrete, and there's instant gratification.

Not that that's the only - or even main - motivation for PCVs to write grants.  I think every single PCV is at a school where there is a glaring need for something, whether it be a library, computers, a science lab, books, or something as simple as desks and chairs.  My school is a pretty nice school by Tanzanian standards, but even here there are very obvious needs.  And we came here to help, right?  So self-gratification isn't the reason, it's just that many PCVs came here because they want to help, and it's very difficult to see a problem but say "sorry, I can't do anything".

We had a session about this during our in-service training.  The Peace Corps staff asked our Tanzanian counterparts how they would feel if the PCV left their school after two years with only having taught.  Most of them said they would feel sad that the PCV didn't want to contribute more to the school - the session was done for a purpose, because this type of reaction isn't what Peace Corps wants.  Our primary purpose is a human resource, not as a source of money.  Therefore, the staff then had to explain more what exactly the role of a PCV is, to try and get them to understand that even if the PCV doesn't build/donate something, they have still given to the school.

Which is true, but that's harder said than done.  I think the main purpose was to make it clear that our schools are not to pressure us into doing something we don't want (or that isn't wise), which is perfectly fair.  But external pressure isn't an issue for me, anyway - I've long since insulated myself from people asking me for things.  The pressure is rather an internal thing, and is me making myself feel like I need to do more than just teach.  And that's something I have to deal with myself.

Despite all this, I have identified a few projects that the school could really use help with.  I am constantly trying to analyze each one to make sure that I am going into this with both eyes open - I don't doubt that they will provide a real benefit for the teachers and students, but it all comes back to being realistic about the possible negative outcomes.  Obviously nobody can ever truly know the future, so despite the most thorough planning, it's still possible that something can go wrong.  But that's a risk you have to take, because otherwise nobody would ever do anything.  As long as you have thoroughly thought the process through, it comes down to what I said in a previous post - you do what you can, and hope for the best.

So what does all of this have to do with a visit from an NGO?  Well, as I said, they donate computers to schools, and a few months ago I submitted an application to them (but I didn't actually write the application - the school's secondmaster did that).  They finally came to visit our school yesterday, and after the visit, I feel fairly certain that the school is going to receive computers (20) from them.

These are still used computers, but there's an important difference - the NGO has minimum specifications they require for all the computers (for example, they all have Pentium III CPUs or faster), and they also make sure that all 20 computers are of the same type.  This is a really wonderful idea, because a) it means you're getting pretty fast computers, and b) having them all be the same makes supporting them so much easier.  They also do all of the installation for you.  But the two best parts are that they provide a service contract to schools at a low cost (about $30/month), and they also provide training for teachers and staff.

These two aspects are really, really crucial.  Why?  Because it's actually not that hard, I think, to get computers here (at least in the northern part where I am, which is much more developed than the rest of Tanzania).  The problems come after you get computers - who fixes them when they break, and who teaches?  Sure, you might be able to find someone who can teach Microsoft Word, but finding someone who knows how to open a computer and replace things like RAM, the CPU, or the hard drive is exponentially more difficult.  That's why computers that break here often stay broken, simply because nobody knows what to do to fix them.  So the service contract is a great way to make sure that the computers stay functioning, and that the students and staff can continue to benefit from having them.   

The training is important as well, especially for a secondary school. Teachers don't make much money here, and anyone who is knowledgeable about computers can probably find a higher-paying job somewhere else, which makes attracting a computer teacher to a secondary school a difficult proposition.  Obviously you can try and train current teachers so that they can become competent enough to teach computers, and in fact this was one of the goals for my second year of service.  However, realistically it's a bit more difficult for me, simply because I also have a rather full load of teaching duties as well.  If we get computers from this NGO, it will be another source of training for the staff, and it will also be coming from a more professional source.  As much as I know about computers, my guess is that they can do a better job than me at teaching.  Plus, their training can continue after I finish my service, whereas any training I do will be finished when I leave.

To me, I think this NGO (and there is another one like it as well in Moshi) is a huge step forward in providing assistance to schools.  There's so much more to IT development than simply giving equipment, and I think their model can really ensure the sustainability of computer teaching.  Plus, while the NGO is based in the Netherlands, the local branches are staffed almost entirely by Tanzanians, which means Tanzanians are helping Tanzanians (and not just Westerners).

To be honest, this NGO is the reason why we might be getting computers, because if there were no service or training components to their assistance, I would be extremely hesitant to bring more computers here.  I expressed this sentiment to my headmaster, explaining to him that while I could bring computers here, what happens if I leave and the school doesn't receive another PCV?  I mentioned this before, but this was exactly what happened after the last volunteer left my school in 2004 - he wasn't replaced, and as a result the school basically stopped teaching computers.  For me to bring computers here and then have them sit idle after I leave would be a waste of time, when those computers could have gone to another school where they would actually have been used.

So am I falling victim to the "edifice complex"?  Maybe, but I'd like to think that I've thought this through as much as I possibly can.

Posted by krisc at 10:00 AM in Tanzania | add comment

October 6th, 2007

The Development of Africa

I came across an article on the BBC the other day (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/7013764.stm) - it's about how almost none of the countries in Africa are going to meet the UN's Millennium Development Goals, which are supposed to be met by 2015. The fact that the countries aren't going to meet the goals isn't really all that surprising. Why? Well, those goals were probably set a bit unrealistically high, and also, one thing you learn very quickly here is that everything (and I do mean everything) takes longer than you think it will.

The article then goes on to expound upon some of the reasons why development in Africa is lagging so far behind, and the possible reasons are many. They include:

- Promises by Western countries to increase aid are being reneged on

- Wars and other conflicts

- Poor governance

- Poor infrastructure

And of course, there are many others. In fact, when you really think about just how many barriers there are to development in African countries, it can be very discouraging. Where do you even begin? Do you try and get more kids in school, do you work on combating the multitude of deadly diseases, do you work on human rights issues such as women's empowerment, or maybe do you try and deal with rampant corruption that sucks huge chunks of these countries' budgets and puts them into the hands of corrupt politicians? Everywhere you look there is a glaring need, but realistically you cannot fix them all at the same time. Yet, ideally (at least in my not-all-that-expert opinion) they all need to be worked on together. So what to do? Well, you do what you can, and hope for the best.

That's a hard thing to come to grips with being a development worker in a third-world country, because it is very easy to be overwhelmed by the sheer magnitude of the problems people are facing. In a sense it's good because there is unlimited opportunity for making a positive difference in peoples' lives, but it's also bad because no matter what you do, there will always be a million more unresolved issues staring you right in the face. And if you get too caught up with trying to fix everything, you'll wind up fixing nothing.

Some Americans deride the Peace Corps as a way for tree-hugging hippies to get a free two-year vacation on the government's dime. They think, what can some arrogant college graduate who thinks he/she is going to save the world really accomplish? I admit that I thought that myself before coming here, and I think that's a very American attitude to take, because we are so fixated on dollar amounts as a precise measurement of assistance given. More = better. There's also the sense that money can fix any problem. Unfortunately, here in Africa money can create just as many problems as it solves.

It's no secret that the US government has, over the years, given huge amounts of money to dictators and leaders in Africa who should never have received a dime - much of this money was given to capitalist leaders due to Cold War fears about the spread of Communism. Even if a head of state was killing his own people, as long as capitalism was alive and well, we looked the other way. Money is a dangerous form of aid, because much of the time it never gets to the people who actually need it (but rather highly-paid politicians who drive around in Land Rovers, own several big houses, and send their children to be educated in Europe or the US).

So there's a human dimension to development assistance as well, and as I said above, all aspects of development are important. I don't deny that hard cash isn't needed, because it is. But in education, for example, giving money to build schools isn't going to do much when there aren't enough qualified teachers to actually teach. Human resources are just as important as monetary resources, and that's what Peace Corps volunteers are - we're not here to throw cash around, we're here to fill jobs that the host countries simply can't fill using their own citizens.

Another hard reality to face is the seeming unwillingness of people to work for their own development. I mentioned this a bit in my post about my students' motivation, and it really is a difficult pill to swallow. My best guess is the lack of interest is due to a combination of things - too much dependence on foreign aid, a lack of thinking about the future, a feeling of helplessness, or an acceptance of things as they are.

The aid issue is a difficult one - as I have said, too often the way aid is given creates and promotes a beggar-like attitude on the part of the recipient, and can have lasting psychological effects. I see it all the time in Tanzanians, when they say things like "we Africans aren't as smart as white people". There is a deep-seated feeling of inferiority, which is heart-breaking to see. Part of that may be left over from colonialism, but I think part of it is also because they are so used to receiving aid for everything that they feel as if they are unable to do things on their own. And while it's true that Tanzania isn't exactly capable of sending a human to the moon right now, that doesn't mean it won't be able to in 50 or 100 years. There's a difference between having the financial means to do something and having the innate capability. Sure, most African countries are lacking in the former, but that doesn't mean your average African has any less innate ability than your average American. Yet that's what some people here think.

At the same time, I don't think it's either fair or productive to say that the white man is the source of all of Africa's problems. When reading stories about African development, it is sometimes obvious that the author is unwilling to point the finger at Africans as well, for fear of maybe being labeled a racist. After all, Africans are all just poor, starving, but innocent people, victimized at the hands of evil colonialists for generations, right? Wrong. Africans are also the cause of Africa's lack of development, and to deny that is to deny the truth. Tribalism, lack of respect for women, rampant corruption, disregard for the rule of law, cultural norms that prevent the effective combating of health problems such as AIDS, and complete disregard for time (as I said, everything here takes longer than it's supposed to).

So what does this all mean? Well, it means that what's going to determine whether or not Africa develops is not how much Western aid pours in, but how badly Africans themselves want to change. So while I don't consider for a moment that my time here is wasted, I also have come to believe that the sole responsibility (or even a majority of it) for Africa's development cannot come from outside - it needs to come from within. If Africans truly want Africa to develop, then it will. If they don't, then Africa will continue to be the world's backwater.

Posted by krisc at 10:59 PM in Tanzania | add comment
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